Friday, October 13, 2023

Europe 2023 - Day 1-2 Aristi, Greece. Featuring a Time Warp, Hot Dogs, Nocturnal Dogs, and More.


Good morning from the village of Aristi in northern Greece, where we have landed in the most beautiful spot ever. More on that later. Two things: sorry about the delay in posting but it somehow took us three days to get here, which was a mystery as only two days had passed, or more like one extremely long day broken up by two small nights, which I somehow couldn't explain. The other thing is that I have been as sick as a dog with the worst head cold that came out of nowhere and has somewhat incapacitated me. My apologies to everyone everywhere as it's probably my fault if you're now sick. I'm starting to feel better now as I'm sure the people standing beside me on the airport bus in Thessaloniki who were giving me the stink eye will be glad to hear. Also the guy opposite me on the train into Frankfurt. Sorry about the sneezing attack. I was definitely 'that person' who should probably have been in a hazmat suit or at least had a paper bag over my head.

Anyway, I would like to start this post by deviating from my usual pattern of 'thanking' Air Canada post-flight for never deviating from their natural pattern of serving pasta dots in a blood sauce, with a side salad of ironed lettuce which, until now, I believed was the third certainty of life, after death and taxes. Unbelievably, we got an upgrade on our recent flight from YVR to Frankfurt and enjoyed some actual food, served on china with a real knife and fork, as well as substantial leg room, and some very nice little extra perks, like welcome glasses of champagne and extra snacks from friend of a friend working that flight (Chantal - you're amazing! Thank you!!!), which made the flight so much more civilized that I fear I am now spoiled and will never be able to go back to regular shite class. Add to that the fact that the flight took off on time, and I was left with a new understanding that miracles can happen. I will miss the flight attendants with their lettuce irons, however.
I was happy to see this random Air Canada sign in the airport. And by 'in the airport', I mean right before the departure gate for our flight to Frankfurt. Makes sense. I mean what a relief to know exactly where to go in the airport, for once.
During our flight to Frankfurt, I somehow forgot that I would then have to actually be IN Frankfurt airport for a few hours until our next flight.
If you've spent any time there, you will know what I mean. I remain convinced that Frankfurt airport embodies the reason why Germany lost the war. Both of them.
The only redeeming feature is that there is a good fast train service into Frankfurt that you can use to get the hell out of there, which we did.
We didn't have tonnes of time, but enough to get to the Medieval quarter, admire some old half-timbered buildings, sit in a cafe in an old cobbled square, walk over a river on an old iron bridge, and pontificate on who may have walked these very same streets in the preceding 500 years. Standard European city activities.
It was a most enjoyable way to pass a few hours and happily, I feel no need to return to Frankfurt.
One nice surprise was this rendition of David (as in David and Goliath) who looked like at one time he did know who he was and why he existed, but has since completely forgotten everything and is now wondering why he is sitting on a dead giant's head, holding a slingshot.


And it's not even Octoberfest here anymore.

I feel like this is a familiar look for a lot of us and I should perhaps be crediting the artist for capturing the human condition quite well.



The only other redeeming feature of Frankfurt is its hotdog scene, which is next level. Even the airport is full of hot dog carts of which I took full advantage. 

I mean check out the condiment dispensers. I may need my own hot dog cart at some point. I am at that point in my life.


Anyway, after the Frankfurter layover, we waited around for our flight to Thessaloniki, which was delayed due to leaking hydraulic fluid, so that was fun, but we eventually got there, got our rental car, and drove to our hotel for the night. The place was lovely with a pool and restaurant and gorgeous view over the whole city, but we were slightly tired and I don't even really remember eating dinner although I know we did, and I for sure don't remember falling asleep although I do remember waking up in a fever at some point and feeling like death for quite a while before the drugs kicked in and I fell asleep again. 
When I woke up, it was 4am and my old friend Mr. J. Lag (you'll remember him from Oslo) was there for a visit. I didn't even tell him we were coming and he really didn't need to bother but he insisted on having a visit for another couple of hours, finally leaving so I could get a little more sleep. 

The next day we woke up to sunshine, took full advantage of the amazing buffet breakfast at the hotel (your average Canadian Holiday Inn could take a lesson from these guys), gathered up our belongings and headed west for the four-hour drive to Zagoria, a region in Northern Greece fairly near the Albanian border, and known for its mountainous terrain and beautiful stone villages. And when I say 'gathered up our belongings' I don't, of course, mean my cell phone as I left that on the table in the hotel in my feverish state. I did remember it, but not until after we had been driving for 35 minutes. So now we know the route into and out of Thessaloniki quite well. Remember the David statue from 5 minutes ago? That's how I was feeling. Fortunately, all the Greeks are lovely people and they had it waiting safely for me back at the hotel.

Back on the road, our destination was the Aristi Mountain Resort, in the minuscule village of Aristi, right in the middle of the most beautiful region ever. Think towering craggy mountains, dry open forests carpeted with tiny purple cyclamen and yellow crocus, crystal clear blue springs, the narrowest of 'roads' stuck precariously on the edge of a hill, cobbled town squares with cafes serving thick slices of bread and chunks of creamy crumbly feta on tables spread out under the shade of the plane trees, buildings made entirely from the local stone, and the most amazing light settling on everything.

It's quite enchanting here, and there is a lovely relaxed other-worldly feel to the place. Kent who, I think most of you know, is recovering from cancer treatment this year (and doing very well!) is a tough travel customer and even he is impressed with the place. It's great to see him relaxing on the breakfast terrace, trying some new foods, and looking more at ease than I have seen him in some time. 
The only other thing of note about this place is that the dogs are nocturnal. True story. They're up all night having dog parties where they bark at each other incessantly. Don't dogs sleep at night? Did I get that wrong? Anyway, they all say Hi, repeatedly, and hope you're all doing well, as do I.

We are heading out on a mushroom-finding expedition today so I'll try not to pick a destroying angel, or a death cap, and hopefully will have some pictures and stories for you on that (the mushroom hike, not my potential death experience) later, along with our Vikos Gorge hike.

As they say here in Greece...well, actually, I have very little idea what it is they are saying here in Greece so I'll just leave it at goodbye for now.











No comments:

Post a Comment